by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

When you begin your wallpapering project, always start by papering a wall that does not have doors nor windows. Always begin at a inconspicuous corner, working away from the window.
Always mark a vertical line on the wall, using a plumb line, as walls and wall papers are half the time not true or square, so [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Wallpapers from the last 25 years or so were “washable,” meaning that the ink would not run if you wet it lightly. Newer wallpapers came with vinyl coating, vinyl acrylic, solid sheet vinyl, laminated vinyl, etc. Most wallcoverings are labeled “non-washable,” “washable” or “scrubbable.” Make sure you know what type of wallpaper you have before [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Using the “torn-patch method” to repair small holes:
1. Smooth out the torn paper as much as possible.
2. Find a piece of wallpaper with a matching pattern, and tear out a patch so that the underlying paper doesn’t show (figure A).
3. Dampen the back of the wallpaper to activate the adhesive. If the wallpaper is not [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Set up a large worktable in a different room that will allow you to spread out the wallpaper and cut it to size. A sheet of 3/4″ plywood placed over sawhorses works well.
1. Determine where and how you want the design of the wallpaper to begin at the ceiling.
2. Measure and cut out a length [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Remove all switch plates and outlet covers from the walls, and move furniture out of the room. Spread drop cloths on the floor at the base of the walls where the wallpaper is being removed.
New wall papers have vinyl coating, and multi layer wallpapers are designed to prevent water from getting in and softening the [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Prepping a wall is important to ensure that your wallpaper adheres to the wall proper. It can also help to ensure an easier process when removing them in future should you decide to change the wallpaper. Prep the wall with a vinyl-acrylic sizing which is applied like paint but dries quickly and somewhat tacky. This [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Tools for Prepping Walls
* Safety glasses or goggles
* Respirator or face mask
* Ear protectors
* Rubber gloves
* Pry bar
* Paint scraper
* Fan
* Hand sanding block
* Orbital sander
* Screwdriver
* Putty knife
* Sponge
* Rags
Materials for Prepping Walls
* Spackle (compound)
* Fine-grit sandpaper
* (100-120-grit Aluminum Oxide or Production)
* Detergent and ammonia or tri-sodium phosphate (TSP)
* Self-adhesive drywall tape
* Primer or [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

When you’ve decided on wall-papering your home, the next step of course is to choose which wallpaper you want. The retail cost of a roll of wallpaper can range from $18 to $250 per roll. However, the price of wallpaper doesn’t necessarily reflect the product’s durability. Some of the more expensive wallpapers are fairly delicate [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Pergolas are outdoor structures that can be stand alone units or structure attached to the sides of the house that provide semi-protection from the elements. You can even add climbing plants or vines that will provide shade. Before you start building your own pergola, check with the local building authority if you need any building [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Exposed to weather, and usage, your new deck will one day look worn and tired. You will need to maintain it by regularly making sure that the area is clean, as well as stain it to upkeep the luster of the wood . Below list some steps on how to re-stain your deck.
Prepping the Deck
As [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Steps can be built in a number of different ways depending on aesthetic preference, but most municipalities have specific codes that must be taken into consideration.
Some terminology that you may encounter when planning and building your deck stairs are as follows:
Vertical Rise : Distance between 2 steps which is usually 6 – 7 inch
Run – [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

There is one final step that many builders take before completing the deck.
To protect the wood and extend the life of the deck, you will need to coat the deck with water-repellent sealer.
This will prevent rotting due to exposure to moisture, AND prevent the costly effect of needing to repair your deck.
Also use water repellant [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

There are several types of railings that you can choose from when building a deck. Just remember that there are certain local codes that you may have to adhere to, and this applies to railings. Check with the local building authority about the types that you can and can not use when you are planning [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Making sure the outer edge are flushed
As you apply the last few deck boards, you will need to make sure that the outer edges of the deck boards are exactly flush with the ends of the joists.
After the second to last course is in place, measure to the ends of the joists. This measurement is [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

This part is where you will start seeing all your hard work and preparation come to fruition.
Before you install the deck boards, make sure you plan and layout the boards properly. Look at each piece and try to put the most attractive pieces in the high-visibility areas. Also, look at each side of each board [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

You need to layout your joist, by marking layout marks on the ledger and girders that show which joist will be located. Joists are located “on-center” distance, where their centers occur exactly every 16”, 24”, or 32”. The distance between joists depends on several important factors:
1. Size of the joists
2. Spacing of the joists
3. Length [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Post and Girders
You can install the girders in two ways:
If the posts and girders are not too long or heavy, you can pre-build the girders/post system, bolt or nail the entire thing together, and then move it as one large piece into place.
The other way is to build it piece by piece in place.
Determine with [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Once you’ve installed the ledger, you can now install the outermost joists at the either end of the ledger.
The outer joists should cover the exposed end of the ledger. Have someone support the furthest end of the joist in a more of less level position and nail the joist into the ledger using 3 or [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

A ledger is used when you are attaching a deck to your existing home. This board is bolted to the house, and the deck is hung on it. If a freestanding deck (not attached to the house) is being constructed, then you do not use a ledger. What you need is to add more bracing [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Materials:
• 2 x 6 boards (pressure-treated pine)
• 2 x 2 boards (pressure-treated pine)
• 2 x 8 boards (pressure-treated pine)
• 2 x 12 boards (pressure-treated pine)
• 2 x 8 boards (pressure-treated pine)
• 4 x 4 posts (pressure-treated pine)
• 6 x 6 posts (pressure-treated pine)
• Carriage bolts and nuts
• Post anchors
• Galvanized 3″ decking screws
• Concrete mix [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Deck building can seem to be a complex do-it-yourself project. It is however, well within the scope of most novice builders. It is definitely a demanding job both physically and mentally, but is ultimately very rewarding. Before you start this project, be sure you have used all the proper materials and construction techniques, and make [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Each A-frame support for the table consists of:
1 piece of 2×6 seat support
1 piece of 2×4 tabletop support
2 pieces of 2×6 legs
Assembling the A-frame support
1. The above image shows the side view of one of the A-frame of the deck table and its individual parts on right. There should be a width of 52 ¼ [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Like entertaining guests at garden parties and barbeques? Having deck tables will be a great addition to provide seating space for your guests. This article deals with the construction of a kid’s table, and you can also make adjustments to measurements to build an adult deck table. An A-frame table is a good choice for [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

You will need to install UV sterilisers if you have green water. You should however remember that you should not rely solely on the UV unit to get rid of algae in the water. The filter that you’ve installed should be sufficient to solve the green water problem.
UV Steriliser is recommended for Koi keeping. Not [...]
by Tom Jackson on June 7, 2009

Venturis are an effective way of getting oxygen into the water. While you can build one yourself, there are many choices that you can buy now at suppliers at reasonable price. A venturi works by compressing the flow of water, then releases it abruptly into a larger chamber which creates a vacuum. Air is introduced [...]