Wallpapering is hard, but to remove wallpaper is even harder. Despite the difficulty, it is necessary if you want to remodel your room. This article intends to guide you through removing wallpapers easily.

1. Turn off electricity
   

   As the process of removing wallpaper requires the usage of water, you need to turn off the electricity to avoid shocking yourself. You will also need to cover the electrical plates with tape for extra protection.
   

2. Protect the floor
   

   Place drop cloths or plastic sheets on the floor to protect the floor. This is extremely important if you have a wooden floor.

3. Get a wheeled scoring tool
   

   You will need a wheeled scoring tool to make little cuts on the wallpaper you want to remove to ease the process of removal. This is particularly important if your wallpapers are vinyl based wallpapers.

4. Get a gel wallpaper remover
   

   Apply the gel wallpaper remover onto a sponge and apply it to the wallpaper from bottom. Target a 5-feet-width of the wall at a time.

5. Follow the instruction on the can
   

   Check the instructions given on the can of wallpaper remover. They will usually tell you how long you need to leave the chemicals on the wallpaper. Follow the given instructions and remove the wallpaper at the instructed time with a scrapper.

6. Wash the wall

   Now that once the wallpaper is removed, you will need to wash the wall with some old rags and warm water. This is to remove the glue.

   Now wallpaper your walls with something new!
   

Removing Wallpaper from a Wall is a post from: DIY Guides

farm4static/flickr.com

Most homes have small bathrooms. It is best to use light colours to decorate small spaces like bathroom to make it look spacious. However, light colours do not mean it has to be the same old white colour. With wallpapers, you can add your own unique style into decorating at the same time making it look spacious. Follow these guidelines when you decorate your bathroom with wallpapers.

1. Evaluate your bathroom space.
During this stage, you need to consider the size and design of your bathroom. Is it small or medium? How are things arranged in your bathroom? What style does it have – is it modern or village-style? Depending on the design and size of your bathroom, you will decide whether you want to cover your whole bathroom with wallpaper, cover one wall or just add a wallpaper border.

2. Measure the space you want to cover.
Measure the height of the wall from top of the baseboard to the ceiling. Measure the length of the wall from one end to the other. Add the lengths of the walls together and multiply the figure by the height. This is to determine how many square feet of wallpaper you will need.

3. Select your wallpaper.
Remember the rule – go for something light colour. As wallpapers come in all sorts of designs, you still get a good variety of choices despite having limited your choices to light coloured wallpapers. You can also go for more than one choice of wallpaper for a more special design. If you are not sure what colours or designs go well with each other, you can seek for advice from the shop assistant.

4. Prep your walls.
Clean your walls properly and repair the cracks and holes. Bathroom walls are usually easier to clean but still you will need to use a mild cleaning solution to wipe the walls so that the wallpapers can adhere better. Also, remove all light switch covers and outlets.

5. Hang your wallpaper.
When this step is done, you can admire your handiwork!

Using Wallpaper to Make Your Bathroom Look Bigger is a post from: DIY Guides

Ever got tired of waiting for the paint to peel? Well, look no further than wallpapering the four walls of your home! You’d be surprised what a simple wallpaper can do to brighten up (or bring down the mood, depending who you are) the atmosphere in your house. Not only that, it’ll be sure to bring cheer to the faces of your kids every time they sit down to do their homework. Not sure how? Read on.

1. What are you going to wallpaper?/div>
   Contrary to what most people might think, wallpaper isn’t just for walls. Have you ever thought of pasting up the ceiling? Maybe add a dash of spice to your closets? Wallpaper can be applied onto just about anything you can think of, but different surfaces require different kinds of wallpaper. Make sure you’re getting the right type.
2. Shop for the best deals

   This is where the ladies are going to have some fun. Wallpaper prices can vary largely in different places, so look around before committing your wallet to your budget. Wal-Mart may not necessarily have the best wallpapers. Also, while going online is a great way to speed up a purchase, the colours may be slightly different from what you’re seeing, and you have no way of knowing what the texture is like, so it’s more advisable to see the wallpaper with your eyes rather than click and buy.

3. Measure the length of the wallpaper

   Make a note on the length of the floor to the ceiling, and the walls from side to side. Also, make sure you measure the windows and the doors so you get a good estimate of how much you need to buy. The store’s staff can be helpful, so don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions.

4. Mix and match

   If you can’t find enough wallpaper of a certain kind, it’s also acceptable to buy different patterns that match to fill a room. Make sure the colours and patterns aren’t too contrasting so that it’s easy on the eye. Similarly, if you just want to spice up your environment, feel free to express your creativity.

Wallpapering isn’t a skill, it just takes some patience and self-discovery on your part to understand what really suits your needs. Take the time to pick out what suits you best, and enjoy your brand new home.

Buying the Right Wallpaper is a post from: DIY Guides

Wallpapering is a method widely used to change the look of your walls in the home without resorting to the need of re-painting. Wallpapering can be a DIY project you can do over the course of a couple of weekends (depending on the size of your wall) or just an overnight job. There are many types of wallpaper out there in the market. You should decide on the type of wallpaper by taking into consideration your needs, budget as well as the practicality when it comes to your home.

Types of Wallpaper

Vinyl Coated Paper

Vinyl coated paper is one of the most common wallpaper used, simply because it is also the least expensive. These type of wallpaper are machine printed and are coated with a protective layer of vinyl (hence the name). This acrylic type vinyl or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coating provides the paper some level of protection from wear, and the more vinyl the wallpaper has, the more expensive it can get. Vinyl coated paper can be scrubbed and resist stains fairly well which makes them practical for use in the kitchen, bathroom or basement.

There are also vinyl coated paper that are created by hand (hand painted), which of course will cost more. You may also come across hand-crafted textured wallpapers which are more durable and are can simulate the look of metal, glass, cement or leather. If your wallpaper costs a lot, you may want to consider having a professional hang your wallpaper for you instead of doing it yourself.

Coated Fabric

As the name suggests, this type of wallpaper has a fabric substrate that is coated with liquid vinyl or acrylic. It is not suitable for places of high humidity like kitchens or bathrooms as these are walls that are exposed to moisture and grease constantly. It should only be used in areas with good ventilation, such as a living room.

Paper Backed Vinyl/Solid Sheet Vinyl

This wallpaper consists of a paper substrate that has been laminated to a decorative vinyl surface and is very durable (due to the vinyl sheet) and can be cleaned, scrubbed and peeled off from the wall very easily when you want to remove it. Like the Vinyl Coated paper, the paper backed vinyl sheets can be used in high humidity areas.

Fabric Backed Vinyl

This type of wallpaper has a fabric substrate that has been laminated to a solid layer of vinyl. There are basically two types of wallpaper that make up this category of wallpaper:

Solid Vinyl – solid vinyl wallpaper consists of a layer of paper or fabric laminated to a vinyl film. Because of its applied vinyl solid film, this type of wallpaper is considered more durable than fabric-backed or paper-backed vinyls. It rates fairly high in terms of durability and can be easily cleaned.

Paper – refers to the type of wallpaper with a paper substrate/ground where the decorative layer is printed on. These type of wallpaper are not coated but you may find some that has a coating applied to seal in the inks.

Once you’ve decided on the type of wallpaper suitable for the area in your home, go out shop around for the best price you can get on them. Always purchase the amount according to the measurement of your work area, then plus another 15% for any possible mistakes that may occur. If there are left-overs, keep them aside as they may be handy when you need to repair your wall paper in future.

Tools and Materials

Tools

• Steel tape measure
• Plumb Bob or 48″ Level
• Water tray
• Seam roller
• Wallpaper smoothing brush
• Razor knife with lots of blades
• Broad knife
• Large sponge
• Bucket
• Pencil
• Ladders

Materials

• Wallpaper
• Wallpaper paste (if needed)
• Rags

Tips for wallpapering

1. Always strip old wallpaper before applying new paper. This is because the seams and patterns of the old paper could possibly show through; giving you an end look that is unattractive.
2. Estimate the correct amount of wallpaper that you need. Make sure that you measure the room correctly, then calculate the amount in total by multiplying the entire distance in feet around the room with the height of the walls.
3. Start wallpapering at the most inconspicuous corner of the room. A corner would be a good place to actually start your wallpapering task.
4. Leave 2 inch at the top and bottom of the wall as this will allow room for adjustments, to ensure that the paper will cover the full length of the wall. It also gives you leeway should the pattern need matching.
5. Place a plumb line on the wall before you start wallpapering. The plumb line should be made about one-paper width away from the corner where you are starting from. The first sheet of wallpaper should be matched with both the corner and plumb line.
6. Use a hard bristled brush to smooth out air bubbles when pasting the wallpaper. Any bubbles left behind will cause the paper to buckle or peel. Use a damp sponge or rag to wipe off access glue that seeps out at the edges. And remember to seal the edges by tolling with a wallpaper roller.
7. When you reach a corner, measure the distance from the corner to the last sheet hung. Cut a strip of paper ½ inch wider than the distance, then hang the paper (making sure it overlaps the corner). With the remainder of the sheet, from which the strip was cut, measure the width and mark a plumb line that width in on the new wall. Then paste this piece according to the plumb line.

Once you’ve selected the wallpaper of your choosing, familiarized yourself with the general tips and ideas on how to wallpaper, and procured all the required tools and materials, you can begin prepping the room and start wallpapering.

Additional Reading:
http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/anatomy.html
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/typesofwallpaper

Selecting the Right Wallpaper for Your Home is a post from: DIY Guides

Wallpapering isn’t a difficult project to undertake, as long as you adhere to certain requirement that needs to be done prior to putting up the new wallpaper. As with the previous chapter discussing prepping the wall, you need to remove any existing old wallpaper before sticking the new ones on the surface of the wall.

Getting the Wallpaper Down

1. To remove the old wallpaper, start by removing switch plates and outlet covers from the walls as well as any furniture out of the room.
2. Place drop cloths on the floor to protect your floor at the base of the walls where the wallpaper is being removed.
3. If you have existing vinyl coating wallpaper you need to make some holes in the wallpaper to allow water to penetrate (do so gently as you do not want to damage your actual wall surface). This coating is designed to prevent water from getting in and softening the glue (that’s why they are washable), so you will need to take this additional step when removing vinyl coating paper.
4. With a utility knife or the edge of a putty knife score the surface lightly. Do this gently. If you have a drywall behind your wallpaper and you accidentally damage it, you will need to repair it before put up the new wallpaper.

   Tip: There are wallpaper-piercing tools available at a home store. This tool is made up of a series of spiked wheels that pierce the wallpaper when you roll it over the wall.

5. Mix a solution of warm water and vinegar in a spray bottle and wet the walls. You can also use a bucket and sponge if you like although the spray bottle will save you time. You may also use non-toxic wallpaper remover mixed with water and spray over the wall.
6. Leave the wall for 30 minutes.
7. Then pick a corner or a seam and gently peel back on the wallpaper.
8. If you come across stubborn sections, use a wallpaper scraper held at a low angle to scrape the paper off. Spray more wallpaper remover in areas that are stubborn as you work your way across the first section. Repeat this peel and scrap method until you’ve removed all wallpaper.

Clean Up and Repairing the Walls

1. Use Tri sodium phosphate (TSP) mixed with warm water to wash the glue off the walls after the wallpaper has come off. Rinse the TSP off from the walls with clear water.
2. Repair any holes that the scraper made in the drywall. Fill small holes with drywall or spackling compound and smooth them out. Allow to dry overnight, then sand the repair, prime and paint.
3. If you’ve made some large holes on the drywall when scraping off the old wall paper, paint the exposed gypsum wall with white shellac, which will prevent moisture in the drywall compound that you use to patch the holes from soaking into the interior of the drywall and cause bulges. Then, patch the holes with drywall compound, let it dry, then sand and prime it.

Hanging Your Wallpaper

1. Set up a large worktable in a different room that will allow you to spread out the wallpaper and cut it to size. A sheet of 3/4″ plywood placed over sawhorses works well.
2. Determine where and how you want the design of the wallpaper to begin at the ceiling.
3. Measure and cut out a length of wallpaper that is 6 inch longer than the wall. Mark just above the point where you want the wallpaper to reach the ceiling or crown molding and use this first sheet as a template for cutting the next one.
4. Soak the second piece in a wallpaper water tray for about 15 seconds, pull it out of the tray and lay it pattern side down on the worktable.
5. Book the ends of the wallpaper (folding both ends toward the middle, paste side in). This will allow you to carry the wallpaper more easily.
6. From a corner of the room that is most inconspicuous, mark the wall at a point that is ¼ inch less than the width of the wallpaper and draw a plumb line down the length of the wall from the mark.
7. Roll out the wallpaper and press the top portion to the edge of the ceiling. Line up the wallpaper with the ceiling and make sure that the edge of the paper is flush with the plumb line. Try to minimize moving the wallpaper around unnecessarily, as you might stretch it and cause the seam and pattern to be out of alignment.
8. Smooth out the wallpaper with a broad knife or a wallpaper brush and press it into corners. It is recommended that you start at the top of the wallpaper, working your way down using vertical strokes, as horizontal strokes may stretch the wallpaper. Remember to work from the inside area toward the edges to remove wrinkles and bubbles.
9. Once you’ve done, trim the wallpaper at the top and bottom. Make sure that you press the paper as tightly into the corner as possible (use a straightedge to press the paper). Trim the paper where needed with a sharp utility knife.
10. Repeat by hanging the second piece and so forth. Make sure that the patterns match at the seams.
11. Leave the wallpaper up for about 15 minutes, then use a seam roller to press the seams together.

Congratulations, you have completed your wallpapering project!

Additional Reading:
http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/anatomy.html
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/typesofwallpaper

Stripping Old and Putting Up New Wallpaper is a post from: DIY Guides

Prepping a wall before you begin the actual wallpapering is a very important step to ensure that your wallpaper adheres to the wall properly. Not only that, it also ensures that removing it in future is easier should you decide to change the wallpaper then. Vinyl-acrylic sizing is applied to the wall like paint to prep it. This coat of vinyl-acrylic of sizing dries quickly and leaves a somewhat tacky consistency. It assures adhesion of the paper to the wall and facilitates easier removal of the paper even after years later.

Safety

Wallpapering is not as difficult a task to do as most people think. It does however, take a bit more effort especially if it comes to trying to wallpaper the ceiling itself (if you choose to do so). Always remember to use the appropriate tool for the job, and keep your tools in tip top shape so that you don’t risk injury or compromise your own safety. For instance blades should be kept sharp as dull blades will require excessive force and can prove to be dangerous as you can slip and hurt yourself.

Always remember to wear safety goggles or glasses when you are using power tools to protect your eyes. When sanding or working with chemicals, always use a respirator or face mask. When operating power tools, wear ear protection and tie back loose hair to avoid it getting caught in power tools. Also make sure that you wear the appropriate clothing so that they don’t get caught in power tools.

Always unplug power tools when you’re making adjustments or changing attachments and when you’re no longer using them. Store them away when not in use to keep your work space un-cluttered. All tools must be grounded and ensure that any power cord of cable is placed in a manner that will not hinder the way it works, or placed in a way so that anyone in the area will not trip and hurt themselves over it.

Tools

• Safety glasses or goggles
• Respirator or face mask
• Ear protectors
• Rubber gloves
• Pry bar
• Paint scraper
• Fan
• Hand sanding block
• Orbital sander
• Screwdriver
• Putty knife
• Sponge
• Rags

Materials

• Spackle (compound)
• Fine-grit sandpaper (100-120-grit Aluminum Oxide or Production)
• Detergent and ammonia or tri-sodium phosphate (TSP)
• Self-adhesive drywall tape
• Primer or adhesive pad
• Sizing or vinyl preparation liquid (for wallpapering)

Method:

1. Clean the wall and make sure that it is free of dust or debris.
2. If the wall has been painted with an oil-based paint, treat it with TSP or a de-glosser so that the paper will adhere to the wall better.
3. Apply an oil-based primer for an untreated new wall or a latex paint-coated wall before you start papering. The wall should also be primed.
4. Spot-primed areas with fresh wallboard or spackling compound.

Note: While it is tempting to just wallpaper over existing old wallpaper, remember that papers will fall off when there’s a wet sheet on top of them. You should remove the old wallpaper so that the new one will adhere to the wall well.

Below lists some Do’s and Don’ts when prepping for paperhanging:

The Do’s

• Always remember to follow manufacturer’s instructions for mixing any chemical or compound.
• Make sure that you choose the appropriate primer/sealer. A primer/sealer is an oil- or acrylic-based coating which is designed to be used under wallcovering and acts as a sealant on the porous surfaces prior to hanging.
• If you find holes, cracks and joints on the wall, make sure to repair them as per required. Any peeling paint should be removed with a scraper, and crack/holes should be patched with compound to repair them. Clean greasy or dirty areas and apply a primer/sealer to any newly patched areas.
• For better adherence of the paper to the wall, glossy or semi-glossy surfaces should be sanded prior to wallpapering.
• It is recommended that you paint any surface before wallpapering such as ceiling, trim, or doors, then start on your wallpapering to avoid splattered paint.

The Don’ts

• Do not hurry your project. You should take time to prep your wall so that you have a satisfactory end result. Skimping on tools or materials and not taking the time to prepare your wall properly will lead to a shoddy result.
• As mentioned above, do not hang new wallpaper over existing wallpaper. If removing the old wallpaper will damage the wall, you need to still try to remove any other parts that are not adhered too tight to the wall.

Prepping your wall before you begin the actual wall papering is very important to ensure that your wallpaper will be hung in the proper manner and will adhere well to its surface. There is nothing more frustrating than to finish your project only to find out a week after signs of peeling or bubbling because steps on prepping the wall were skimped in order to make time.

Additional Reading:
http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/anatomy.html
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/typesofwallpaper

Prepping the Wall before Wallpapering is a post from: DIY Guides

When you begin your wallpapering project, always start by papering a wall that does not have doors nor windows. Always begin at a inconspicuous corner, working away from the window.

Always mark a vertical line on the wall, using a plumb line, as walls and wall papers are half the time not true or square, so they cannot be relied upon as a guide.

Hanging Wallpaper around switches

1. 1. First of all, TURN OFF electricity in the house.

1. 2. When you get to a light switch make two diagonal cuts across the centre of the faceplate. Press the paper around the faceplate and trim off access with scissors or a utility knife, making sure you don’t accidentally cut too deep and damage the wall beneath (take special care if you have a drywall).

1. 3. Loosen the faceplate then tuck the paper behind it, re-install faceplate the Wait for the adhesive to dry. Then you can turn back on the electricity.

1. 4. Use the same method for wall sockets: cut the wallpaper to butt against the mounting box, then cut the diagonals with scissors and trim access with a sharp knife.

Papering around windows and doorways

There are two types of windows/doorways. Those that sink into the wall into the opening and those that require papering around raised trimmings.

1. 1. For the first type of doorway/window, fit the paper by hanging the paper around th eopening and trim the excess to within 2 inches from the final trim. Cut diagonal slits at the corner of the opening.

1. 2. Fold the top, bottom and side flaps around the doorway/window. Then apply a matching piece to fit each side, cutting it 1/4 inch narrower than the width of the space.

1. 3. Start papering around doorway/windows with raised trimming by marking a horizontal line above and below the window. Hang the strips as you would normally on a full piece of paper (top to bottom) from the direction that you have progressed thus far. Try not to hang the top part and then the bottom, as this may cause unmatched or unaligned patterns.

Wallpapering Archways

1. 1. Paste a piece of paper on the centre arch of the doorway, with equal pieces hung down the sides (overlapping the doorway opening and sides). Just below the curve, make horizontal cuts in each side strip from the inner edge to within 1 inch of the wall. Fold the lower portions of each sides around the arch’s edge.

1. 2. On the archway, trim the folded in paper to within 1 inch of the edge and make wedge-shaped cuts to within ¼ inch of the edge.

1. 3. Measure the length of archway, and subdivide to two. Cut two matching strips of that length ¼ narrower than the arch depth and 1.4 inch longer than each divided length. Apply these strips from side to top and double-cut the seam.

Wallpaper around openings is a post from: DIY Guides

Wallpapers from the last 25 years or so were “washable,” meaning that the ink would not run if you wet it lightly. Newer wallpapers came with vinyl coating, vinyl acrylic, solid sheet vinyl, laminated vinyl, etc. Most wallcoverings are labeled “non-washable,” “washable” or “scrubbable.” Make sure you know what type of wallpaper you have before you embark on cleaning it. If your paper wasn’t labeled take a small piece to a wallpaper dealer and ask them what they would recommend. You can also test an inconspicuous area (as behind furniture) by wiping it with a damp cloth; if the wallpaper does not change in color or appearance, it probably can be safely cleaned as a washable wallpaper. Do not wait until your wallpaper gets too dirty before cleaning it. Vacuum off dust periodically. Gently brush it downward from the ceiling with a vacuum cleaner wall brush. You can also use a long handled soft brush, a clean cloth tied around broom or mop. Change the cloth frequently when it gets soiled to prevent unwanted streaks, Cobwebs can cause streaks when brushed down so lift them up when you are trying to brush them off.

Washable Papers

These kind of wallpaper have a plastic coating and can be cleaned with a damp cloth or sponge. Use water sparingly and do not get them wet.

1. 1. Mix a solution of mild white detergent (or hand dish washing liquid) in cool water in one bucket, and cool rinse water in another.

1. 2. Clean the ceiling first.

1. 3. Then clean the walls from the bottom up. Wipe overlapping areas gently in circular motion with a damp sudsy sponge with the white detergent, then with a damp rinsing sponge.

1. 4. Pat gently with a clean soft cloth or bath towel to remove any surface moisture.

1. 5. If any area has to be re-washed to remove soil, let it dry completely before washing again.

1. 6. Some foam cleaners may be used, but only if directions on their label say they can.

“Scrubbable” Wallcoverings

Vinyl or vinyl-impregnated paper are “scrubbable” which means they can be scrubbed with a foam cleanser or all-purpose detergent. Use a sponge or soft cloth, and rinsed with clean sponge or cloth. Avoid using abrasive liquid cleaners nor any scouring powders nor any other abrasives, as these could scratch the vinyl finish.

1. 1. Spray a four-foot square area, holding the can about 8 inches from surface.

1. 2. Wipe off foam and soil with a clean damp sponge.

1. 3. Wipe area with a rinsing sponge, and gently pat dry with clean towel.

Fabric and Textile Wallpaper

Fabrich and textile wallpaper may be the hardest to clean, unlike vinyl-coated and easy to wash wallpapers. Burlap or grass cloth wallpapers are very hard to clean when stained. Make sure that you follow directions provided by the manufacturer of that covering, or ask a dealer for a cleaner recommended for that wall covering.

Dust the wallpaper occasionally with a clean cloth or vacuum to remove loose dirt. When washing spots and stains, use a sponge or soft bristle brush soaked in a mild detergent or soap solution and then rinse well.

Add two or three tablespoons of bleach on trouble spots. Use the non-chlorine type for delicate fabrics. Rinse with plenty of clear water and dry with an absorbent towel to prevent streaking.

Non-washable Papers

For non-washable papers, use commercial wallpaper cleaner that looks like putty material and rub it over the surface, following directions on the product exactly.

Remember to test first a on place usually not seen, such as behind furniture, to see how it affects paper and that it does not streak.

Then vacuum or brush off any bits of cleaner that have clung to the wall.

Spots and Stains

Finger Marks, Smudges, and Pencil Marks: Rub gently with art gum or commercial wallpaper cleaner. On washable paper, wipe with damp sponge, or sudsy sponge and then damp sponge if needed to remove mark.

Grease Spots: Hold a clean white blotter or several white paper towels over the spot and press with a warm iron until the grease is absorbed by towels.

Apply a paste spot remover if the stain still persist and brush it off after it dries to a powder. If it is a washable paper, wipe off with a sudsy sponge, followed by damp sponge.

Crayon: Scrape off any excess with table knife. Use a warm iron and white paper towel method similar with grease spots. For non-washable papers, paste spot remover (as in grease spots) or wipe gently with a cloth moistened with denatured alcohol or spot remover.

Note: denatured alcohol or spot remover are flammable and the vapors are toxic, so be sure there is no flame, spark, or pilot light in area and have plenty of ventilation. REMEMBER to use only on small spots. DO NOT clean walls with this method as it is dangerous.

For washable papers, use mild detergent solution and sponge after lifting grease. Do not smear the residue.

Wallpaper maintenance is a post from: DIY Guides

Using the “torn-patch method” to repair small holes:

1. 1. Smooth out the torn paper as much as possible.

1. 2. Find a piece of wallpaper with a matching pattern, and tear out a patch so that the underlying paper doesn’t show (figure A).

1. 3. Dampen the back of the wallpaper to activate the adhesive. If the wallpaper is not prepasted, apply a thin coat of wallpaper paste.

1. 4. Position the patch so that it matches the surrounding wallpaper pattern (figure B). Press the patch into place with a sponge.

To re-paste wallpaper

Lift loose wallpaper carefully. It may be necessary to wet with water. Spread thin wallpaper paste underneath. Smooth down with a clean, damp cloth.

Note: For newer plastic-coated papers, ask your wallpaper store for the correct paste.

To remove a blister in wallpaper

Cut across blister with a very sharp razor blade, cut along a line in the pattern. Lift edges carefully and spread thin wallpaper paste underneath. Smooth down with a clean, damp cloth.

To repair seams

Note : This method is safest on vinyl surfaced wallpapers.

1. 1. Check the area under the seam for loose paste for loose material like dirt or durst.  This will help to ensure that the seams will adhere back to the wall. Brush away or vacuum them out.

1. 2. With some seam sealer, available in tubes or tubs (a tube is recommended as it is easier to apply especially in small areas) and a small artist’s brush (if you’re using tubs) apply the sealer into the seam. Apply enough so that it squeezes out when the seam is pressed down.

1. 3. With a damp sponge, press the seam down and rub it gently over the seam a number of times, turning it each time to a clean area. Remember to rinse the sponge in clean water as often as necessary, but squeeze it out thoroughly. This is to spread the sealer behind the wallpaper, removes the excess and cleans the surface of the wallpaper.

1. 4. Apply tape to the seam starting at either end of the loose area, not in the middle of the loose seam. The tape functions to hold the seam together and take the curling pressure off the sealer. Use “painter’s tape” as it has a slightly less sticky adhesive than masking tape so it’s less likely to tear the wallpaper when removed.

1. 5. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours before removing the tape. Remove the tape carefully or you may pull the seam open.  Redo the repair immediately if you accidentally pull the seam out again.

Removing bubbles in wallpaper

Bubbles in wallpaper appear when adhesive has not been applied evenly when the wallpaper was being hung. It can also be caused by not pressing a roller firmly enough. Bubbles may also be an indication of moisture problems in the wall—make a close inspection to determine if this is the case and then take the necessary remedial steps.

Take the following steps to repair bubbles in your wallpaper:

1. 1. Moisten the area with a clean, damp cloth.

1. 2. Using a utility knife or sharp razor blade, slit the bubble. Make a V-shaped cut or follow the wallpaper pattern so as to conceal the cut and make gluing it back easier. Avoid making a straight cut.

1. 3. Apply glue through the slit with a narrow putty knife, the spread the glue with a damp sponge so it completely fills the area beneath the bubble.

1. 4. Press the wallpaper smoothly to the wall and roll.

Alternatively you can also use a syringe-like glue injector to inject wallpaper adhesive into the bubble’s center. Then use a roller to work the adhesive throughout the bubble, and squeeze the excess back out through the hole. Wipe away the excess with a damp sponge.

Repairing Wallpaper is a post from: DIY Guides

Set up a large worktable in a different room that will allow you to spread out the wallpaper and cut it to size. A sheet of 3/4″ plywood placed over sawhorses works well.

1. Determine where and how you want the design of the wallpaper to begin at the ceiling.
2. Measure and cut out a length of wallpaper that is 6 inch longer than the wall. Mark just above the point where you want the wallpaper to reach the ceiling or crown molding and use this first sheet as a template for cutting the next one.
3. Soak the second piece in a wallpaper water tray for about 15 seconds, pull it out of the tray and lay it pattern side down on the worktable.
4. Book the ends of the wallpaper (folding both ends toward the middle, paste side in). This will allow you to carry the wallpaper more easily.
5. From a corner of the room that is most inconspicuous, mark the wall at a point that is ¼ inch less than the width of the wallpaper and draw a plumb line down the length of the wall from the mark.
6. Unbook the wallpaper, and press the top portion to the edge of the ceiling. Line up the wallpaper with the ceiling and make sure that the edge of the paper is flush with the plumb line. Try to minimize moving the wallpaper around unnecessarily, as you might stretch it and cause the seam and pattern to be out of alignment.
7. If you see the top corner of the wallpaper wrinkling, cut a slit in the paper, starting at the edge of the ceiling and cutting outward. Use a sharp utility knife or a pair of scissors.
8. Smooth out the wallpaper with a broad knife or a wallpaper brush and press it into corners. It is recommended that you start at the top of the wallpaper, working your way down using vertical strokes. Horizontal strokes can stretch the paper. Remember to work from the inside area toward the edges to remove wrinkles and bubbles.
9. Once you’ve done, trim the wallpaper at the top and bottom. Make sure that you press the paper as tightly into the corner as possible (use a straightedge to press the paper). Trim the paper where needed with a sharp utility knife.
10. Repeat by hanging the second piece and so forth. Make sure that the patterns match at the seams.
11. Leave the wallpaper up for about 15 minutes, then use a seam roller to press the seams together. Press the roller lightly to avoid a glossy area. This step is omitted with raised and flocked wallpaper.

Hanging Your Wallpaper is a post from: DIY Guides