Exposed to weather, and usage, your new deck will one day look worn and tired. You will need to maintain it by regularly making sure that the area is clean, as well as stain it to upkeep the luster of the wood . Below list some steps on how to re-stain your deck.

Prepping the Deck

As always it is important to prep your deck. This is important as refinishing your deck depends on good preparation. Thoroughly clean and strip the wood before you even think about re-staining it.

Cleaning

• Use a stiff-bristle push broom.

• Use trisodium phosphate (TSP) or a commercial cleaner.

• You may not be able to get to the tight corners or crack, but this will work adequately for small jobs. You can also use brush-scrubbing as a less-harsh alternative to power washing.

Strip Old Stain

Use a chemical stripper. This is particularly useful in areas like railings and those exposed to less water. Always make sure that you wear protective gear like gloves, goggles and face mask when handling chemicals.

Pressure Wash the Surface

You can also remove dirt, old stain and debris from the deck effectively with this method. You can also opt to use trisodium phosphate (TSP) with the pressure washer or other deck cleaners for better result.

Bear in mind that you should not spray an area on the deck for too long as it may cause the wood to gauge.

Stain a Deck

Apply the finish once your deck is left dry after cleaning and stripping. Choose the type of finish that you want. Finishes come in clear, tinted, semitransparent, and solid colors. Clear or tinted products usually last just a year or two, depending on the climate. Semitransparent and solid stains last longer.

Tip: You must allow the deck to dry before you apply the finish. Reset popped nailheads and replace warped or split boards before you begin to stain the deck.

There are three ways for you to stain your deck:

Use a Roller

You can use a roller attached to an extension handle to make it easier for you to stain without having to bend over. Do not roll more than a few deck boards at a time, as you don’t want to end up with overlap marks. Complete each length before starting the next.

Use paintbrushes for railings and recesses that rollers can’t reach.

A Sprayer

You can cover a larger area quicker and in a much more uniform manner with a sprayer. They also allow you to reach those hard to get places like corners and railings.

You can choose from using power sprayers or a simple pump-type sprayers. Check to make sure that you buy the appropriate finish if you choose to use a sprayer as not all deck finishes are appropriate for sprayer application.

Use a Pad

You should use gel stains if you wish to stain your deck with pads. This is because pads are easy to use without drips or runs. They are also designed in various pad applicators that will allow you to reach difficult spots.

Application process though is longer. You may want to limit pad application to those hard to reach spots or smaller area.

Re-staining Your Deck is a post from: DIY Guides

Steps can be built in a number of different ways depending on aesthetic preference, but most municipalities have specific codes that must be taken into consideration.

Some terminology that you may encounter when planning and building your deck stairs are as follows:

• Vertical Rise : Distance between 2 steps which is usually 6 – 7 inch
• Run – Depths of each tread; can range between 11 to 16 inch
• Vertical drop – height of stairs from the ground to the deck surface
• Span – distance the stairs cover from the deck to the foot of the stairs

• 1. Mark the position of the stairs on your deck. On the side of your deck, mark the location that the two stair stringers will attach (see Figure A). They are approximately 36 inches apart.
  2. Measure the dimensions of your stairs:

Calculate the Vertical drop from the deck surface to the ground. Then divide this number by 7 to determine the number of steps.

Example: if the vertical drop of your deck to the ground is 33 inches

33 / 7 = 4.7 (round up) = 5 steps with each vertical rise at 6.5 inch

Calculate the run that you prefer. Typically two 2×6′s is a good choice. Which means the step treads will be 11-1/4 inch deep. So your run is 11-1/4 inch. Multiply 5 (steps) time the run (11-1/4 inch) and you get 56-1/4 inch. This is the span of your stairs.

• 1. 3. Mark the post hole location

With a 2×4 and a square, lay the 2×4 on the deck about 2 inch on the outside of one of the stringer marks. Measure out the distance of your span calculation minus 18 inch. Drop a plumb bob and mark the ground. Follow the same procedure for the other stringer mark.

• 1. 4. Dig the post holes

At the marks on the ground, dig round post holes and pour concrete footings. Attach the post piers and posts as described in the previous chapters in installing pier foundation for your deck.

• 1. 5. Mark the Stringers

Use a square to make out your stringers on 2×12 boards. If the deck surface overhangs the frame of the deeck, factor that into the top step. The other steps should be 10-1/4 inch to allow a 1 inch overhang on each step. The rise measurement in this example is 6-1/2 inch as calculated above.

• 1. 6. Cut out the markings

Use a circular saw to cut the stringers. Since a circular saw can’t get all the way into the corners with a cricular saw, use a hand saw to finish each cut

• 1. 7. Attach and secure each stringer

Attach each stringer to the deck frame using an angle bracket. Use lag bolts and washers to secure the foot of the stringers to the support posts.

• 1. 8. Build the Stair Treads

To build the stair treads, cut 2×6 boards to span the stringers. If you factor in a 1 inch overhang on each side, cut the boards to 38 inch per this example. Allow 1/4 inch gap between the two boards on each tread. Screw the boards into place with two screws per board per stringer.

Installing Deck Stairs is a post from: DIY Guides

There is one final step that many builders take before completing the deck.

To protect the wood and extend the life of the deck, you will need to coat the deck with water-repellent sealer.

This will prevent rotting due to exposure to moisture, AND prevent the costly effect of needing to repair your deck.

Also use water repellant with a mildewcide especially on redwood to keep its red color and not turn black with age.

You can also apply sealer to all pieces before construction, for a more complete coverage. This sealer serves well for a base coat for other finishes. If you apply the sealer to a redwood deck after it is completed, you can apply coats at 12 to 18 month intervals to eliminate the darkening effect and preserve the beautiful buckskin color.

If wood is left unsealed, it can rot, stain, and decay, often resulting in your having to replace the wood prematurely. Because of the enduring qualities of heart redwood, this is not as much of a problem with redwood as it is with other woods.

You can apply the water repellant with a brush, roller, or spray. It penetrates quickly because it is thin.

Cleaning and Waterproofing Your Deck

There are several options for you to take when cleaning your deck. You can use a pressure washer, a scrub brush and some detergent or try a commercially available deck cleaner.

Use deck cleaners that are biodegradable and safe around pets, plants and of course children.  Also remember to use gloves, protective eye wear and clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty in.

1. 1. Remove everything from your deck. Then sweep the deck to remove dust and debris.

1. 2. Prepare the cleaning solution by mixing it with water as directed on the label. Use a pump sprayer to apply the cleaning solution to the deck.

1. 3. Start scrubbing the deck with a stiff-bristle deck scrub brush when the solution starts to foam. Scrub the deck thoroughly, rinse it off with a garden hose.

1. 4. When the deck is dry, apply a clear or tinted water repellent to protect the wood.

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There are several types of railings that you can choose from when building a deck. Just remember that there are certain local codes that you may have to adhere to, and this applies to railings. Check with the local building authority about the types that you can and can not use when you are planning your deck.

You will also need a railing if the deck is more than a certain distance from the ground, often 30 inches. The code will allow only a certain gap between the ballusters, sometimes called spindles, around 4” – 9”. This is so that a child cannot slip through. The height of the railing is regulated, too – 36” – 42”. Be sure you check all of this before beginning.

Also choose a style according to your budget, time, and energy, as well as to the overall look and use of the deck. Get some design inspiration from books or design magazimes.

Below lists several types of railings that are more common:

1. Typical Builder Deck Railings:

Beveled 2×2 wood pickets fastened to a 2×6 on edge at the top and fastened to the rim joist of the deck (outer band of wood in the deck frame).

2. Custom Wood Deck Railings

3. Pre-Fabricated Vinyl Extrusions With Metal Sleeve Inserts (for Strength):

These are with aluminum inserts in wood deck railings. Aluminum pre-fab deck railings are also available at most lumberyards. These screw- together extrusions often utilize Plexiglas (which yellows, but you can cut to size) or tempered glass inserts.

Metal deck railings can range from the old basic welded metal (painted) deck railings, to architectural aluminum-powder coated finish.

4. Composite Deck Railings:

Composite railing mostly have metal reinforcement and is made to look like wood.

Basics to installing deck railings

These steps apply to most types of railings. Just make sure that there is stability when you install railings. As discussed above there are codes that apply to deck railings. Make sure you adhere to those codes for safety reasons.

This installation involves constructing 2 x 2 ballusters with a 2 x 4 top railing with bolting the bottom of the ballusters to the band joists, using two Hot Dipped Galvinized lag screws, and by tying the railing into the house at several places.

1. Cut all the ballusters.
2. Then cut the 2 x 4 top rail. Use pieces that are long enough to span the entire length of each section. If you need two pieces of top rail because the span is too long, join two over a 2 x 4 picket for adequate bearing. Make sure you position this break for the most balanced appearance.
3. Where two sections of the deck come together, miter cut the top rail to cover any exposed end grain.
4. Mark the top rail so that the ballusters will be property spaced. Then bolt the ballusters to the rail using lag screws.
5. At the bottom of each balluster drill two holes that are one size smaller than the lag screws that will hold the ballusters to the joists and band.
6. Make sure that the second hole on the baluster is at least 1 1/2” from the edge of the band joist that you will be installing it on.
7. You are now ready to install the entire assembly onto the deck. Use two 2 ½” lag screws (Hot Dip Galvinized, aluminum, or stainless steel so they will not rust) at the base where the picket meets the joists and band.
8. Nail a few ballusters temporarily in place to hold it there. Then use a level to locate where each balluster will meet the band and joists to make sure they will all be level and parallel to each other.
9. Hold the picket in place while you mark the location of the holes on the band and joists. Then drill these holes on the band and joists with a drill bit one size smaller than the shank of the lag screw.
10. Bolt the lag screws in around the entire deck until the railings are all in place. Where two railings intersect at their mitered cut railing top, drill pilot holes through one top railing into the other and then nail together with 10d HDG finishing nails, two from one direction and one from the other.
11. Your railings should now be complete.

Deck – Railings is a post from: DIY Guides

Making sure the outer edge are flushed

As you apply the last few deck boards, you will need to make sure that the outer edges of the deck boards are exactly flush with the ends of the joists.

1. After the second to last course is in place, measure to the ends of the joists. This measurement is made from the outer edge of the second to last course to a point on the joists that takes into consideration the gap between the courses + the width of a deck board i.e. ¼ inch gap + 5 ½ inch board = 5 ¾ inch measurement.
2. Mark the ends of the joists at this point and draw a line across them with a combination square, then cut the joists. Nail the last course on.
3. After this last course is in place you can install the band joist (the piece that is installed across the ends of all the joists). Often this band joist is one size wider than the joist, to act as a curb for the decking.
4. Now you are ready to cut the “wild end” of the deck boards.
5. Make a mark at either end of the deck and pop a chalk line to get a perfectly straight cut. Cut off the wild ends of the decking boards to this line with a saw.

Tip: Paint the exposed ends of the joists and deck boards with a waterproofing for added protection.

Band Joist

Install your band joist after you’re done with cutting the joist and ‘wild end’ of your deck boards. The band covers all outer edges of the deck and is one size (2”) wider than the joists so that it acts as a curb for the decking.

The ends of the individual band pieces are also miter cut so that there is no exposed end grain.

Remember that the measurements of the inside cut of the miter is taken off the deck, not the out- side.

Nail the bands to the joists with 6d nails.

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This part is where you will start seeing all your hard work and preparation come to fruition.

Before you install the deck boards, make sure you plan and layout the boards properly. Look at each piece and try to put the most attractive pieces in the high-visibility areas. Also, look at each side of each board to see which side you want exposed.

Do not use boards that are badly bowed.

Start installing the deck boards from the wall outwards. Start with good straight pieces of board nearest to the wall as these will serve as a guide fort he rest of the other pieces. If they are crooked it will affect the final look. Leave a gap between the first course and the wall, so that water can drain down the wall.

Also start the deck boards flush with the outside edge of one of the outer joists, let them “run wild” at the other end. You will be cutting the ‘wild’ end after you’ve installed all the deck boards (discussed in next chapter).

Make sure that the boards are long enough to span the entire width of the deck. If the deck is too wide, you will need to install two pieces (try not to use any board over 14 feet long as these will definitely bow). These pieces must always join directly over the center of a joist, to provide a nailing surface for each piece.

Tip: Never join all the courses over the same joist, as it will look like a big suture running down the deck. Stagger the joints so that every other course joins over the same joists.

Finishing nails

Use double HDG 16d nails as finishing nails. You can also use stainless steel and aluminum nails if you can find them. Avoid nails that rust, like electroplated nails.

Unless you’re using redwood, use three nails in a 2 x 8 and two nails in 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 boards, at each point where the board crosses a joist.

On 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 redwood boards one nail per joist can be used.

Alternate these nails from one side of the board to the other. This method counters any minor tendency to cup or pull. Two nails are used for boards 8” or wider. All nails should penetrate 1 1/2” into the joists.

Remember to leave a gap between each course of deck boards to allow water to drain off the deck. Use a a flat carpenter’s pencil or the shank of a 16d nail between the boards as they are applied, leaving an adequate gap of 1/8 – 1/4”.

Tip: Use a smooth-headed hammer and try not to scar the wood (though the first few rains will probably draw out most of the dents).

Installing the Deck Boards is a post from: DIY Guides

You need to layout your joist, by marking layout marks on the ledger and girders that show which joist will be located. Joists are located “on-center” distance, where their centers occur exactly every 16”, 24”, or 32”. The distance between joists depends on several important factors:

1. Size of the joists

2. Spacing of the joists

3. Length of span from ledger to girder

4. Type of wood used for joists

5. Any heavy loading, such as snow

You must ensure that the spacing between the joist are correct, as wrong measurements can cause the deck to collapse. A building inspector can stop your project. Talk to a local retailer or building code office about the proper spacing of your joist.

To make the layout:

With a nail nailed at the center of one of the two outer joists already installed, measure along the ledger, making a clear mark every 24” (or 16”). These marks indicate the center of each joist.

Make a second mark 3/4” to either the left or right side of each of these first marks which indicates one side of each joist rather than the middle. This will make it easier for you to locate the joist hangers on the ledger. Make a good straight mark for this, since you will be nailing your joist hanger to this mark. Nail the hangers on flush with the edge of these new marks.

Do a similar layout on the girder as you did on the ledger for each joist that crosses the girder.

Begin nailing the metal joist hangers on the ledger using the special stubby joist hanger nails provided with the hangers.

Installing the Remaining Joist

Install all your joist before you cut them to length.

Simply insert the joists into the joist hangers. Be sure to crown each joist, pointing the bow skyward (as per explained in previous chapter on installing outer joist).

Insert it in the hanger, and nail hanger nails through the hanger into the joist. Then toenail the joist (using two 10d HDG nails) through the joist into the girder. Use special HDG L-shaped fasteners which are recommended in earthquake areas.

Note: Place galvanized metal flashing on top of each joist before the deck boards are applied as this helps keep water from getting trapped between the decking and the joists, causing rot.

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Post and Girders

You can install the girders in two ways:

• If the posts and girders are not too long or heavy, you can pre-build the girders/post system, bolt or nail the entire thing together, and then move it as one large piece into place.

• The other way is to build it piece by piece in place.

Determine with local building codes on which type of post/girder variation to use. There are two types, either 2 girders can be nailed or bolted to the post (see Figure A) or the girder can be placed on top of the posts and fastened with metal attachments (see figure B)

Figure A Figure B

Figure B variation allows you to cut cost out the wood. So decide on which type of girders you want to use with adherence to the local codes.

Cutting the posts

1. To determine post height (where in this project the top of the post is level with the bottom of the outer joist that you’ve installed earlier), go back to your two outer joists and check to be sure they are still exactly level.
2. Move the string that is on top of the joists (which you used to center your foundation pier holes) so that it is now connected on the bottoms of the joists. The level of the bottom of the joists is the same level as the top of the posts you are about to cut.
3. Measure from the top of each pier block (or metal fastener) to the string, and cut posts corresponding to each of these measurements.
4. Be sure you are accurate and that you make good straight cuts so the posts will sit smoothly on the pier blocks. Do so by marking around the circumference of the post, cut one side, and then rotate it and cut the sides adjacent to it.
5. Finally make one more cut on the side opposite the first cut.

Cutting the girders

After the posts are cut, cut your pieces of girder stock the specified length. This will be the length of the ledger plus 3”.

Make sure you use one continuous piece of girder stock for each piece. If that is note possible, be sure the two pieces meet at a post so they can both be attached there.

Make sure that all girder stock is extremely straight. Just like the outer joist, there can be a possibility that they are bowed. If the bow is small (1/2” over 12’), point it up toward the sky and it will settle down in time.

With all your pieces cut you can now assemble posts and girders into one unit. Usually this is done with bolts, nails, or metal fasteners.

• If you are resting the girder on top of the posts, use metal fasteners. Be sure to always use hot dipped galvanized (HDG) fasteners, boils, or nails so they will not rust
• If you are bolting it together, drill your holes good and straight so the bolts will go through straight. Use a bit that is 1/8” larger than the bolt, to allow for final adjustments.

Assemble the entire unit, then move it into place under the two outer joists. If you are assembling the pieces in place, the application is pretty much the same.

Measure out from the wall to be sure the girder is the proper distance from the wall before toe nailing the outer joists to the top of the girder. Check to make sure the joists are still at right angles from the ledger and still level. Then nail the joists into the girders with 10d galvanized nails to use some special L-shaped metal fasteners.

Deck – Post and Girders is a post from: DIY Guides

Once you’ve installed the ledger, you can now install the outermost joists at the either end of the ledger.

The outer joists should cover the exposed end of the ledger. Have someone support the furthest end of the joist in a more of less level position and nail the joist into the ledger using 3 or 4 16d (penny) HDG (double hot dipped galvanized) nails. To ensure that the joist is a right angle to the ledger, place a framing square at the intersection of the joist and the ledger and make sure it is at 90 degrees angle. Then drive a temporary 2 x 4 stake into the ground that will hold the joist level (check with a 4’ – 8’ level) and at that right angle. Nail the joist to the stake.

For an accurate measure, use a 3 – 4 – 5 triangle. Repeat with the other outer joist.

Note: The outer joist should be as straight as possible. Choose two that is straightest to install at either end of the ledger. As you look down the joists you will notice that they have a small bow, or crown. No piece of wood is ever perfectly straight.

To remedy this, this crown should always point up toward the sky when you install the joist. This is called “crowning a joist”. Over time the bow will settle down if gravity is working with it. So be sure to crown your joists before installing.

Locating the foundation pier holes

With the two outer joists in place you now have a clear outline of the edges of the deck. From this outline you can locate all your foundation pier holes. Check your plans to determine the exact locations.

Example: your plans call for two holes, the centers of which are exactly 11 from the wall and 2’ in from the outer edges of the sides of the deck.

1. Measure out along each of the two outer joists 11’ from the wall, mark the joists, drive nails at those points.
2. Draw a string from joist to joist between the two nails.

3. Then measure 2’ from the outside edges of the joists along the string and mark the string. Allow extra measurements if there are decorative band joists to be added over the two side joists just installed

4. These marks on the string locate the centers of the two pier holes.

5. Transfer these marks to the ground with a plumb bob.

6. Drive in two small stakes and Then mark out for the radius of the pier holes and begin digging.

NOTE: The location of the pier block holes depends on a couple of factors, such as code enforcement and design. Be sure you know where you want the supports before you start to dig.

Diggin’ In

Size does matter.

The diameter and depth of the hole is usually about 16”, but there may be a need to check with the local code. Depth distances are normally between 12” – 60”. Frost level in the area may play a role as well (the colder the climate, the deeper the hole).

Once diameter and depth has been determined dig good, straight (not sloping) holes. Dig until you hit stable undisturbed soil that will not settle.

NEVER backfill a hole with loose dirt before pouring concrete. This compacts and causes settling.

Concrete

Next step is to mix up some concrete, pour it in the hole, drop a pier block in the fresh concrete, level and align it, and continue.

Tip: Keep the concrete damp while hardening for a stronger pour. This can be done by sprinkling water on the pour as it dries or by laying wet cloths across the top.

Follow the instructions as to the proper mix. Pour the concrete in the hole within an inch or so of the top and smooth it out with a piece of 2 x 4 or a trowel until it is relatively level. You can now place the pier blocks.

Pier blocks serve as a transition from the posts supporting the girder to the concrete foundation footings.

The most common type is simply a small truncated concrete pyramid on top of which the wooden post sits (See Figure A).

The weight of the deck keeps the post in contact with the pier block. Often metal fasteners are used in areas where there are earthquakes (Figure B). They are embedded in the fresh concrete and the posts are bolted to them. This prevents the posts from shaking off the pier blocks in a quake.

Back to building your deck

1. Fill the hole with concrete, making sure the concrete leveled and smooth.
2. Then drop the pier block into the fresh concrete and work it down until at least 3” – 4” of the base of the block are embedded.
3. Make sure that the pier block is properly aligned and that they are level.
4. To check alignment, drop a plumb bob from the marks on your string that you have made earlier. The tip of the plumb bob should be centered to the pier blocks.
5. To check level, use a small torpedo level, placing it in both directions as well as diagonally across the top of the pier blocks until the tops are level. Tap and move the blocks around to make any needed adjustments.
6. Once you’ve done your checking and re-alignments (if needed) allow the concrete to harden, which can take anywhere from 2 to 24 hours.
7. You can then begin building the girders and posts.

Tip: Keep the concrete damp while hardening for a stronger pour by sprinkling water on the pour as it dries or by laying wet cloths across the top.

Deck Installing the Outer Joists is a post from: DIY Guides

A ledger is used when you are attaching a deck to your existing home. This board is bolted to the house, and the deck is hung on it. If a freestanding deck (not attached to the house) is being constructed, then you do not use a ledger. What you need is to add more bracing to stabilize the deck. One of the things to remember is that in some areas a deck attached to a house will be taxed, but if it is separated by even an inch or two it will not.

The Level of the Ledger

First of all, you will understand that the level of the deck will be at least 1-3″ below the level of the finished floor inside the house. No one wants to trip over the deck when stepping out of the house and it also would not make sense to install a deck higher than the floor inside a house, as water runs in if it rains.

The top of the ledger then will be 1 1/2″ below the final top surface of the deck because that is the thickness of the decking board (1 1/2″) that will be nailed on top. For example:

• Leave 1″ – 3″ drop from your door
• Allow for the size of your decking boards – that will be another 1 1/2″
• So measure 2 1/2″ – 4 1/2″ down from your indoor floor level
• Mark the wall showing the highest point of the ledger

If the deck joists, which support the decking or surface of the deck, are installed on top of the ledger (rather than hang from it) then the top of the ledger will be lower than the final level of the deck. Decide whether you want to hang the joists from the ledger or rest them on top before you start your installation work.

Location on the Wall

Make sure that you secure the ledger properly. Position the ledger at a point on the wall where, once it is attached, the lag screws attaching the ledger will penetrate something solid such as wall studs or floor joists. Placing ledgers at the same level as the floor joists of the first floor solves the problem as the lag screws will penetrate the band joists. If you’re positioning the ledger else where, and if there’s nothing solid to have the lag screws attached to, then you will need to attach the ledge with bolts.

Tip: For areas that see a lot of heavy rain or snow, a metal flashing on top of each deck board will be needed, as this helps keep water from getting trapped between the decking and the joists, thus causing rot.

Choosing the Ledger

Choose vertical grain board as this kind of wood comes from the center of the tree and will show center circles. This is ideal as deck building ledgers should be free of ingrown knots and flaws (or at least only have very small knots). Those with arc grain are prone to warp and cup over time. Be sure the board, as with all decking materials, is of redwood, cedar, cypress, or pressure-treated lumber.

Once you’ve decided on the materials for your ledger and other building material, check the foundation of the work area to see if there are any obstructions, such as hose faucets, dryer vents, gas or water pipes, electrical wires and so forth. These obstructions have to be relocated. Anything that is below the ledger will be underneath the deck and therefore less accessible to repair.

The services of an electrician or a plumber will be needed to rearrange some wires or pipes if you cannot do this yourself.

Locate and mark any underground pipes or wires before you begin digging the foundation holes so that you will not be disturbing them.

Tip: Because you will be exposing the structure through lag screw holes, use some silicone caulk in the holes before you screw the lag screws in. This is to help keep rain water running down the wall from flowing into the structure.

Installing the Ledger

1. The ledger is usually the same size as the joists. Cut it to length, which is the total length of the deck minus 3” (for 2 x 1 1/2’’ thickness of joist on each side).

2. With the ledger resting on saw horses, mark the lag screw locations. These should be in pairs, one on top of the other, every 30”, or staggered singly every 15”, making sure each hole is at least 1” more from the edge of the board for proper holding.

3. Drill the holes with a bit that is 1/8″ larger than the actual screws so that you will have a little play for adjustments.

Positioning of ledger

4. Mark the corresponding holes on the siding, and drill the holes in the siding.
5. Nail one end of the ledger (the top part) temporarily in place. Then get it exactly level with a 4’ – 8’ level on the board, and temporarily nail in the other end. Check once again to be sure it is exactly level before marking the holes. Mark the lag screw holes that were drilled in the ledger on the wail with a felt tipped pen. Remove the ledger.
6. Drill the lag screw holes in the wall. REMEMBER: Use a bit that is one size smaller than the shank of the lag screw to ensure that the lag screw has a good bite into the wall. Drill straight into all the holes, making sure that you are drilling into solid wood, or use the blocking and bolt method described earlier.
7. Squirt some silicone caulk in the holes in the wail before screwing in the lag screws to keep rainwater running down the wall from flowing into the structure through the lag screw holes.
8. Precaution – Before you attach the ledger permanently: If the ledger were attached directly against the wall, with its back surface against the wall, trapped rainwater running down the wall can cause rotting. Leave a small space (1/2”- 3/4”), so that water can continue to run to the ground. This can be done with washers on the lag screws between the ledger and the wall which have been hot dipped galvanized (HDG), which do not rust. Use aluminum washers if your wall is aluminum siding.
9. Thread the lag screws into the ledger, then install the proper number of washers on each screw. If the siding is not flat but has different surface levels (beveled siding, aluminum siding, shingles, etc.), compensate with more or fewer washers on the top screws than on the lower ones so that the ledger is installed true vertical.
10. Squirt caulk into the holes, lift the ledger into place, tap the screws into the wall. Tighten the screws and make sure they are biting solidly into the wall, especially the last 2”.
11. You are now ready to install the two edge joists and locate your pier holes.

Paint waterproofing on the cut ends of the ledger and all other exposed boards, especially if you are using pressure-treated lumber or a decay resistant lumber that is not all heart.

Deck – Installing a Ledger is a post from: DIY Guides