Flowering bulbs provides a myriad of colorful display in a garden with the minimum of effort. When you decide to plant bulbs you need to find varieties that suit the area you\’re living in. The key to growing healthy flowering bulbs is in the soil. You need to use soil that has proper water drainage and a well-balanced pH that will spure the growth of the flowers.
What is a Flower Bulb?
A bulb is defined as an underground vertical shoot that has modified leaves (or thickened leaf bases) that act as self-contained storage of food for the flower. There are three types of flowering bulbs; and they are spring flowering bulbs (which are planted in the fall), summer flowering bulbs (which are planted in the spring) and fall flowering bulbs.
Choosing Bulbs
Larger bulbs are preferred so that you can be ensured of a good bloom. These sizes are categorized as DNI (largest), DNII (smaller), and DNIII (smallest). Also choose bulbs that are firm, and avoid those that show signs of rotting. Bulbs that are soft, show signs of external damage (cracks and deep scratches) and starting to grow shoots or roots should also be avoided.
Store bulbs in a cool, dry location without direct sunlight if you are not planting them immediately upon purchase.
Your choice of bulbs also depends on when you want your bulbs to flower. Bulbs are sub-categorized further into two types according to their hardiness:
- Hardy Bulbs (which is made up of mainly spring flowering bulbs) which are planted in the fall before frost begins and survives through the winter.
- Tender Bulbs (which are generally summer flowering bulbs) planted in summer. These bulbs must be dug up each year and stored indoors over the winter.
By referring to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Maps, you should be able to find out which types of bulbs are hardy and which types are not. This guide will be able to help you determine the best time to plant every kind of flower. The list below gives you some species and their hardiness.
| Type of bulb | Hardiness |
| Early Spring Blooms: Chionodoxa (Glory of the Snow) | Hardy to Zone 3 |
| Galanthus (Snowdrop) | Hardy to Zone 3 |
| Eranthis (Winter Aconite) | Hardy to Zone 4 |
| Mid-Spring Blooms: Hyacinthus (Hyacinth) | Hardy to Zone 3 |
| Muscari (Grape Hyacinth) | Hardy to Zone 3 |
| Tulipa (Tulip) | Hardy to Zone 3 |
| Crocus (Crocus) | Hardy to Zone 3 |
| Scilla (Bluebell) | Hardy to Zone 3 |
| Narcissus (Daffodil) | Hardy to Zone 4 |
| Anemone (Windflower) | Hardy to Zone 4 |
| Late Spring Blooms: Allium (Allium) | Hardy to Zone 5 |
| Convallaria (Lily of the Valley) | Hardy to Zone 3 |
| Trillium (Wood Lily) | Hardy to Zone 5 |
| Sparaxis (Harlequin Flower) | Hardy to Zone 9 |
| Early-to-Mid Summer Blooms: Lilium (lily) | Hardy to Zone 4 |
| Iris (Iris) | Hardy to Zone 4 |
| Hemerocallis (Daylily) | Hardy to Zone 4 |
| Gladiolus (Sword Lily) | Hardy to Zone 7 |
| Acidanthera (Peacock Flower) | Hardy to Zone 7 |
| Crocosmia (Montebretia) | Hardy to Zone 7 |
| Ranunculus (Persian Buttercup) | Hardy to Zone 7 |
| Dahlia (Dahlia) | Hardy to Zone 8 |
| Ornithogalum (Star of Bethlehem) | Hardy to Zone 8 |
| Late Summer Blooms: Amaryllis (Belladonna Lily) | Hardy to Zone 7 |
| Autumn Blooms: Colchicum (Meadow saffron) | Hardy to Zone 5 |
When and where to plant flower bulbs
Flower bulbs require soil that drains well, and should also be humus-rich. Sandy loam soil that is neutral to slightly acidic (pH between 5.5 and 7.3) and rich in nutrients is also highly recommended. Soil test will be able to help you ascertain if you have the right soil for bulbs, and if the quality does not match up, then you will have to take steps to amend this.
If your soil is too acid (low pH) then you should add agricultural lime. These are natural forms of calcium carbonate which are the cheapest form of lime for gardening and agricultural use and can be applied at any time of the year. If the soil is too alkaline (high pH), then add sulfur, iron sulfates or aluminum sulfate to lower it. Other components like urea, urea phosphate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphates, ammonium sulfate and monopotassium phosphate can also lower soil pH, as well as fertilizers that gives a slightly acidic effect on soil, decayed vegetable matter, compost and stable manure.
Once you\’ve got a good mix of soil, till the location where you will plant your bulbs thoroughly. Make sure that the area is not a place where water will collect, such as the bottom of a hill. Also make sure that the area you have selected gets plenty of sunlight as most flowering bulbs prefer full sun. Only certain species (like woodland bulbs: Erythronium (Dog\’s Tooth Violets), Anemone nemorosa (Woodland Anemone), or Arisaema (Jack-in-the-Pulpit)) require a bit of shade.
How to Plant Bulbs
- Plant winter bulbs when the soil is still soft enough for you to dig a hole. This also allows the bulbs to establish roots before the winter periods. This is about 6 weeks before the beginning of winter.
- Plant bulbs with their pointed side up. If you\’re unsure, the shriveled roots are normally on the flatter side of the bulb.
- Bulbs should be planted at a depth of about 3 times their diameter.
- Dig a hole at the correct depth and add some mix of bone meal or superphosphate into the bottom of the hole.
- If you\’re planting them outdoors, prevent rodents from eating the bulb by planting several bulbs (about a dozen) in a cage made of hardware cloth. Some rodents do not enjoy bulbs of certain flower, such as daffodils. You don\’t have to take this step if daffodils are the choice of bulbs.
- Re-fill the hole and water the bulbs to settle them in and close any air pockets. Water the bulbs over fall and winter only if the soil is too dry. Other wise you don\’t really need to water them.
Once spring begins you should be rewards with a burst of colors in your garden.
More Reading:
http://www.plantingflowerbulbs.com/
http://www.gardening-advisor.com/Flower-Bulbs.html
