Renovating your roof\’s tiles

If you are renovating your roof tiles, always remember to take safety precautions and if you are afraid of heights, it is advisable to hire professional people to do the job. If you are doing it yourself, it is recommended that you use the tethering system (can be purchased at your local hardware store) that will catch and protect you if you slip (God forbid). Below are some of the steps to renovate your roof\’s tiles.

What you need:

  1. A ladder that is tall (and safe) enough to reach your roof
  2. Silicone
  3. Caulk
  4. Gloves
  5. Measuring tape
  6. Caulking gun
  7. Roof tiles
  8. Composite asphalt shingles


  1. First of all, you need to review the blue prints of your house roof area to know the exact size of it. Then, you have to look for a trusted contractor supplier\’s company in order for you to purchase trusses in your area. You need to mention the exact size of rafters, exact slope, and length of overhang, size of ridge beams and bearing beams, and size and location of ceiling joists before purchasing your trusses.
  2. After that, you need to drive a nail onto the top beams of the house roof where the setting of the nails must at least be ¾-inch from the end of the house. Then, measure about 16-inch and mark an \’X\’ sign onto the board and also place the \’X\’ sign closest to the nail. If there is an overhang on both ends, you have to do an adjustment to the measurement so that the plywood reaches from the end of the overhang until the middle of the trusses interior.
  3. To do roof framing, you need to raise one if the rafter trusses before turning it upside down and leaning it against the rafter\’s ties. Then, place another rafter truss following the same technique at the opposite end of the building. After that, you have to rotate the truss up into position and to do this you need to have some leverage. To add leverage, just nail a board to the truss enabling it to swing around.
  4. Then, based on the \’X\’ mark that you have created earlier, nail the rafter tie over it and this is the area where the rafter gets connected with the cap plate. After that, install a temporary brace for holding the truss up across the top cord where it slopes and with someone assisting you in holding a 4-by-8 foot board level against each truss helping you to nail it to the truss. This process need to be repeated until all the trusses are fixed accordingly.
  5. For sheathing the roof, you can chalk a line according to your specific measurement across the rafter tails that are hanging off the sides and trim off the rafters so that all of them have the same length. Then, attach the sheets of ply board to the edge of the rafter tails and work upwards until reaching the roof top. After that, you have to cut off excess plywood at the ridge of the roof to enable it to fit in nicely into the centre of the rafters.
  6. You need to stagger the connecting points while working across the roof and also cutting some panels into half to use it together with every other row of sheathing. For adding more stability, use special metal plywood clips that you can purchase from local hardware stores that you can clip in spaces between the plywood and the trusses. Make sure to check the alignment and also the end supports from bottom to the top of the roof. The above mentioned steps (5 and 6) should be repeated on the other slope of the roof.
  7. You can also apply tar paper for extra protection. First of all, snap horizontal chalk lines across the roof sheathing at least 35 5/8-inch above the eaves. The paper needs to be placed on the roof where you need to line it up with the side edge of the roof. Ensure to leave at least 4-inch of paper to overlap joining pieces and also 6-inch to overlap ridges and hips.
  8. Before securing the paper on the roof, you have to smooth it first and then use a staple gun (other tools to use are pneumatic stapler or a hammer-tacker) that has 1/4-inch staples for securing it on the roof. Try to staple it every 12-inch apart.
  9. After that, you can start to shingle the roof starting with the first row. The starting row should be for drip edge shingles where it is placed under the drip edge at the sides, on top of the drip edges and also at the eaves. For composite asphalts shingles, it starts at the eave with a cut off the tab at the ends measuring at 3-inch. Use four 12-inch galvanized roofing nails for nailing each starter shingle and place them at least 3-inch above the eave. You need to allow 1/2 inch overhang on the eave and also 1/16 inch space between each shingle.
  10. When finished with the starter row, place the next shingles on top of it with the tabs facing the eave. Four nails per shingle can be utilized for attaching the remaining rows. The nails should be placed at least 5 5/8-inch above the bottom line, and 12-inch from the shingle edge. The first shingle for the second row needs to be trimmed first (6-inch), while for the third row of shingles (12-inch). Continue trimming for at least 6-inch intervals up to the seventh row of shingles and when it reaches to that point, start the cycle over again using a full-size length.
  11. For roofs that have hip shingles or ridge shingles, you can either purchase ready made shingles or make it by cutting a 12-inch tab of a regular shingle. For guidelines, you have to mark each side of the hip or ridge line at least 6-inch down. Then, lay the cut shingles over the ridge before you line-up the edge of the shingles using chalk line and also make sure that it is centered over the ridge of the house.
  12. Then, you need to nail two nails into the shingle on top of the sealant tab and cut the shingle up the centre of the tab (4-inch) where the hip and ridge intersect. The top of the hip need to be nailed to the 4-inch overlap over the end of the last shingle. After that, fold the last shingle over the roof\’s eave; place a nail in the fold and also two nails on both side of the ridge. In order to seal the roof, apply roofing cement on each nail, seal the edges of the singles, nails ad bolts

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